JAPANESE FASHION & FLY FISHING: A Natural Synergy

A perfect representation of this was utilitarian outerwear and its recent rise to the fore of fashion’s consciousness, permeating mood boards, fashion collections and runways to a collective fever pitch. What resulted was the once unlikely moments in life becoming an opportunity to demonstrate aesthetic preferences, even the humble, time-honoured world of fly fishing.

Much like a lot of things in contemporary fashion, Japan represents a leading figure in this movement, spearheading the osmosis between the worlds of fly fishing and fashion. To really unpack this cross pollination of two once-far-removed worlds, it’s necessary to shine a spotlight on the art of fly fishing itself and its cultural significance in the country of Japan.

Fly fishing in Japan possesses a rich and cultural history, with the popular method of Tenkara being steeped in the country’s historical milieu. Its origins date back centuries to the Shokuryōshi fisherman located in the country’s breath-taking mountainous regions, whose roles would be to catch enough fish to both feed local villages and provide enough salt fish to last throughout winter. The method of fishing they would use, the technique now commonly known as Tenkara, consisted of a rod, a line and a fly — a simple, minimalistic set up which was cost effective and easy to source. The rods, for instance, would be fashioned from bamboo, cleverly pieced together using various species to achieve different zones of flexibility where needed. This method of fly fishing would serve as the precursor to what is commonly known as Tenkara today, which translates from Japanese into “fishing from heaven” or “sky fishing”.

While the origins of Tenkara are rooted in catching fish to survive, the modern-day story is a much different one. Towards the latter half of the 20th century, Tenkara’s role in fishing began to move away from being a means to live into a pastime. The emphasis shifted from catching fish to eat towards catching and releasing them — the enjoyment of fly fishing itself being the sole objective. This peaceful philosophy serves as the antithesis to increased farm fishing and homogenisation of fish species, with many Tenkara fishers aiming to improve biodiversity and pay respect to the land that they fish. As a result, this ethos has manifested in many different practices and rules, implementing no catch and kill zones and fishing using barbless hooks.

This idea of peace and respecting the land is something that exists in other pockets of Japanese fly fishing, too. Esteemed fishing documentarian Rolf Nylinder offered an insight into a lesser-known fly fishing society in his 2019 short, “The Great Shaku Hunter”. Rolf gains exclusive access to join a secret society of fly fishers in the mountains of Sendai known as “Shaku Hunters”, who gain their title through successfully catching elusive Iwana and Yamame fish that measure over 30.3 cm — the unit of measurement otherwise known as “shaku”, or the “Japanese foot”. These fly fishers know the streams and creeks like the back of their hand, treating both the fish and the land around them with the utmost respect and dignity.

Naturally, with fly fishing representing such an integral part of Japanese culture, connective fibres between the sport and fashion — another pillar of the country — would inevitably form. Perhaps the most obvious would be an off shoot of one of the country’s most revered fishing brands, DAIWA PIER39. The label is very much soaked in the milieu of its legendary parent brand, though it introduces a balance between utility and aesthetics to offer a bridge between the city and the outdoors. Technical fabrics and utilitarian detailing meet quintessential Japanese style, with elements of prep and relaxed fits drip-fed throughout.

South2 West8, too, is another coveted Japanese label that’s fully immersed in the world of fly fishing, specifically its Hokkaido origins and the island’s natural disposition for Tenkara. One of the brand’s signature pieces, for instance, is named the “Tenkara Trout Parka”, featuring detachable sleeves, multiple pockets and even a rod holder for Tenkara. Woven throughout each design, though, is a clear and distinctive aesthetic focus, enabling each South2 West8 piece to be worn seamlessly in the great outdoors and around the city. It was through South2 West8 that the fashion-fly-fishing bridge was well and truly formed, when in 2021 the Nepenthes label partnered with none other than Supreme for an infamous apparel collection, merging technical outerwear with psychedelic patterns and punchy graphics. Ultimately, while the two worlds may seem miles apart on the surface, there’s a clear mutuality between Japanese fly fishing and fashion, one rooted in fervent passion, meticulousness and respect for the environment surrounding you.