Rediscovering the lost art of Yanaijima with visvim
25 April 2019Japanese menswear mainstay visvim explore the history of traditional Japanese textiles in their latest dissertation.
Revered for their use of traditional techniques, VISVIM make use of heritage fabrics and treatments to create contemporary menswear collections for a global customer. Proud of Japan's rich history in textiles and craftsmanship, VISVIM periodically release dissertations focusing on particular elements of the country's artisanal heritage and how this informs the brand's design. Their latest dissertation explores the lost art of Yanaijima - a traditional textile which was synonymous with durable workwear throughout the Meiji Period (1868-1912).
Falling into obsolescence as textile production began to industrialise towards the end of the Meiji era, the intricate hand-woven art of Yanaijima faded into the shadows until it was eventually considered lost. A tale too common in post-industrial societies, the artisan technique remained little more than a fragment of memory. Given that its primary use was in workwear apparel, it was rarely cared for and quickly disposed of, rendering even archive samples extremely rare.
And so the textile remained lost until a traditional Takahata loom was discovered in a family home and presented to the city of Yanai as a gift nearly 30 years ago.
The loom's disinterment reignited the region's affinity with the fabric's rich indigo colour, soft handle, and striped patterns, and sparked the establishment of The Yanaijima Preservation Society in a bid to revive production of the textile.
Unlike high-end fabrics, Yanaijima fabrics were used to make everyday clothing, so it was easier for people to throw them away.- Tadao Ishida -- Chairman of the Yanaijima Preservation Society -
Single minded in their mission to connect the lost textile with future generations, the preservation society painstakingly repaired looms, hunted for archived samples, and crusaded for their cause.
Testament to their steady efforts, the society now enjoys over 80 members and 20 weavers and has even developed its own colourful iteration of Yanaijima by using vegetable dyeing techniques.
Not dissimilar to the Japanese Sashiko technique featured in UrlfreezeShops's collaborative sneaker pack with Bodega, or the latest adidas NMD pack, Yanaijima is recognised once more, admired for its intricate weave and well-wearing durability across Japan.
The resurrection of this key piece of Japanese textile history acts as a stark reminder to us all that things can be forgotten without being lost, as long as we do something about it.
Read the full dissertation on the VISVIM website.
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