It’s been roughly eight years since Awake NY first came onto the scene and in that span, its founder Angelo Baque has become synonymous with authenticity. He’s been a behind-the-scenes facilitator for decades, often pushing dominos forward with the sole purpose of keeping the culture moving. It’s his willingness to be inclusive that has led a broad network of like-minded individuals who want to see him succeed.
Angelo wears NY on his chest, but not just on a clothing tip. He represents what it truly means to be a New Yorker by staying ahead of the curve and prioritizing the unquantifiable value of experience. Through Awake NY, he walks the walk through his devotion to community and his practicing what he preaches, which is simply to work hard and with intention.
The way Awake has reverberated with such impact on its home turf should be dissected, and it starts with their Lower East Side flagship store. It acts as a cultural intersection as much as it is a retail store; it’s got art, music, grit, refinement, and even a giant metallic frame of a globe (shoutout to Flushing Meadow Park).
As a minority growing up in Queens and learning the ropes through the downtown shop scene in its heyday, Angelo knew the game was rigged and it was on him to even up the playing field for whoever he hands down the reins to. The result of his focus: Awake NY is now among the most sought-after collaborative partners in the youth culture scene.
Ahead of Awake’s debut collaboration with Jordan Brand, we chatted with Angelo to talk sneakers, what it means to be from Queens, and the impact of working with a monumental force like the Jumpman.
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“I was first to do a Kayano 14. I had people wearing ASICS at a time when nobody else was wearing the brand.”
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Before teaming up the Jordan, Awake NY’s most prolific foray into footwear came in partnership with ASICS. It began in 2019 with the GEL-Quantum 360, sprouting an impressive library of tech-runners long before the trend settled in.
For his first collaboration under his own namesake, Angelo chose the GEL-Kayano 14; this was long before it ever became the “it” shoe it is today. At the time, only Kiko Kostadinov was dabbling with the model under the brand’s in-house creative studio, but generally speaking the shoe’s relaunch in late 2020 went by unnoticed. Baque’s lifelong obsession with the “Silver Bullet” Air Jordan 5 Red Suede Never Broke Again Matching Shirt Red quantity played regular roles in his work; he was adamant about adding silver accents to his designs, whether it be as a minute accent or covering larger ground. Now, you’d be hard pressed to find an ASICS collaboration without the metallic detail.
His work with ASICS didn’t stop there; he was tapped by the brand to helm the ASICS Collective, a band of creatives tasked with broadening the brand’s collaborative activities in the space. This group consisted of Angelo’s life-long friends Denim Tears founder Tremaine Emory, Jessica Gonsalves of Procell, photographer Renell Medrano, and the late Chris “Spanto” Printup.
He later co-designed the ASICS GEL-NYC, which ceremoniously debuted to the public as a collaboration with his Awake label. Both the Kayano 14 and GEL-NYC are now at the forefront of ASICS Sportstyle’s seasonal business. Though Angelo has moved on to other projects with sneaker brands, he deserves credit for setting the foundation for the Japanese brand’s recent revival.
“The last thing I want to do is make it something it ain’t…our customer is too smart for that.”
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This acumen for tasteful design has its roots in Angelo’s time at the frontlines for the city’s must-visit shopping destinations for anyone who cared about streetwear and that it meant more than graphic tees. His decade-long tenure at Supreme further encouraged him simply work hard and be better, and it all culminated in the launch of his Awake label in 2016. The year-over-year growth of the brand is a testament to his devotion to sticking to his guns, but it’s his desire to serve as a conduit to the community is why brands have been flocking to his email inbox and why it’s resonating in major cities across the globe.
While the conversation around the Jordan Air Ship collaboration began around two years ago, the seeds were planted long before Awake was even incepted. The inner braintrust at Jordan Brand respected Angelo’s vision during his Supreme days, often bouncing ideas off of him during roundtable sessions. He recalls when Jordan Brand and most of the industry was entrenched in the tech-wear aesthetic, he and long-time friend Chris Gibbs urged the opposite, eventually leading to the “vintage” boom that continues to persist today.
Although the Air Ship has awkwardly converted from a Nike shoe into a Jordan one, its history cannot be challenged. As the one before the 1, the Ship is irrevocably part of the Michael Jordan lore, and the gap between this 1984 Nike model and the Air Jordan legacy is much smaller than you think.
The real challenge was bridging that gap. The strategy: inject soul, connect the product to emotion, and empathize with the multi-generational span of New Yorker. He had to make it as “New York” as possible, but not to the point where it wasn’t palatable.
“Anywhere there’s a hood…NYC, Baltimore, Chicago…there’s a gum bottom culture.”
Angelo on his design choice for the Air Ship
The Air Ship reminded Angelo of all the other Nike shoes of the 1980s that he loved, such as Air Force 1s and Terminators. “The Air Force 1 is the most ‘NY’ shoe. What is its unofficial name? The Uptown.” Thus began an deep dive into Air Force 1 history, and from there, he nods to the ’82 classic with the double-layered Swoosh and gum bottoms. Angelo’s goal was to bring refinement to the model, ditching the original leather used in earlier drops and opting for a tumbled leather.
He’s a sucker for any type of animal texture as it represents the charming gaudiness of NYC fashion. He and many other New Yorkers typically stack their baggy pants on top of the shoe, so the snakeskin on the ankle collar was just the right hit as it reveals the flashiness in a subtle manner. The same treatment is seen on the varsity jacket as the exotic material is used just under the arms, para itself in intermittent glimpses.
The oxidation on the sole and the pre-yellowed look is truly a dividing line, but at the end of the day Angelo’s goal was to put out the best shoe possible. The aged treatment just gave it that added pop, and without it, he admits the shoe looked like a boot.
The silver theme continues via the outer Swoosh, an homage to the aforementioned Silver Bullet 97s — a shoe Angelo names as one of his Top 5 personal favorites of all-time.
Angelo’s fascination with the most nuanced of details conveyed as easter eggs in the packaging. On the under-side of the shoe-box lid are GPS coordinates of the hospital in Fort Greene, Brooklyn where Michael Jordan was born. The tissue paper that blankets the shoes inside is covered with a print of an old map of that borough. Even the typography on the sticker inserts that proudly state the NYC boroughs were done by Brent Rollins, who at age of 19 designed the original movie poster for Spike Lee’s 1989 film Do The Right Thing.
“If you told me years ago that I’d have an Awake logo on a Jordan shoe, i’d say you’re lying.”
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Branding and logo placement for shoe collaborations have always been a unique challenge for Air Jordans, but the Jumpman has gotten more lenient over the years. “It’s a once in a lifetime opportunity to add my own mark and identity on a Jordan shoe. That’s fucking bananas.” Angelo started by placing the embroidered “A” at the forefoot, tastefully camouflaged with the tone-on-tone stitching on the leather.
Awake’s namesake again appears on the right heel in place of the customary Nike Air branding. Finally, getting Awake NY on the Jordan Wings logo was a fight. That iconic emblem is sacred ground as far as we’re concerned, and Angelo admits that “hoops had to be jumped through” in order to get it done.
“If you don’t own that moment, someone will take it away from you…”
Angelo on his decision to reveal the Air Ships during Awake’s grand opening
Of course, the world first caught wind of this project back way back in June of last year at the grand opening party for the Awake’s first brick-and-mortar store. For the ceremonious night, Angelo chose to hang his Air Ship collaboration off a painted water pipe fixed to the ceiling, not unlike the many pairs of worn kicks that are slung over traffic lights on nearly ever inner-city intersection.
“I had to convince the Jordan team to let me do it. I didn’t tell anyone, and I didn’t promote it. If you don’t own that moment, someone will take it away from you”. This was in direct reference to the “sneaker leakers” who get early samples and post with the shoe with tight joggers and other wack fits.
Angelo specifically chose not to place it in a glass case or on a pedestal with a spotlight. “We come from a ‘less is more’ and letting the work speak for itself. That’s the NY shit.”
When asked what shoe he’d love to work on, Angelo blurted out “Air Jordan 4” without a moment’s hesitation. “My last favorite pair of sneakers during the pandemic was the “What The” 4s….I bought a pair and beat the shit of them, and now I need another two pairs.”
At the conclusion of our conversation, Angelo confirms that the second royal blue version will indeed be launching later in 2024, and that he’s got another project with Jordan Brand in the works for 2025 (not the Air Jordan 4). “We never had a company believe in us the way the Jordan team did”, adding that he almost cried when saw the Awake NY x Jordan billboard light up the corner of 34th St. and 7th Ave. “I want to vocalize it because it’s normal for me…I don’t want to take anything for granted.”
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