MANGAL II: AN ANATOLIAN ODYSSEY WITH FERHAT & SERTAÇ DIRIK

An apt starting point for our odyssey into Anatolian cuisine, it seemed only right to set off on this culinary journey with Ferhat and Sertaç Dirik, the restauranteurs behind Dalston’s premier ocakbaşı restaurant, Mangal II, ahead of the launch of their collaborative sneaker with UrlfreezeShops and PUMA. Similarly entrenched in history, the East London landmark has been a mainstay in the British capital’s food world for thirty years. Established in 1994 by the brothers’ father, Ali Dirik, Mangal II brought traditional Anatolian cooking techniques to the UK at a time where Turkish food was scarcely available. Capitalising on a distinctive approach to coal grill cooking steeped in the history of the region, the restaurant found favour amongst local diners and food tourists, delivering a menu of authentic dishes that exemplified the flavour profile of this part of the world.

Taking over the reins from their father back in 2020, Ferhat and Sertaç have spent the past four years slowly transforming the restaurant into a modern interpretation of Turkish food. Combining their signature mangal grill approach with a contemporary sensibility, Mangal II has become a destination for sampling forward-thinking Turkish cuisine. With a background in the culinary arts, Sertaç’s experiences of working in kitchens in Copenhagen introduced a fine dining approach that honoured the quality of their food, while Ferhat’s expertise in low intervention wine further entrenched the restaurant in a dedication to quality produce at reasonable price. “I always say that it was an evolution not a revolution,” Ferhat reflected on the development of the modern Mangal II restaurant, “day by day changes, tweaks and modifications. We intrinsically planned every step of it, and it became its own thing. At some point we almost felt like guardians of what it was becoming.”

Returning to Central Anatolia for the first time in nearly twenty years, it has always been a dream of the Dirik brothers to reconnect with their food heritage at the source. For the launch of the UrlfreezeShops x PUMA x Mangal II Suede sneaker and to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the restaurant, the Dirik brothers took a trip to Türkiye to sample some of the traditional dishes on offer and explore their homeland. From kuşbaşı and pide to manti and pastirma, Ferhat and Sertaç’s Anatolian odyssey starts as it means to go on; with a healthy serving of hearty food made with dedication and passion.

Placed at a picturesque bend on a road that snakes beneath a mountain range, the first eatery on our voyage into Anatolian cuisine sits a mere 19 kilometres away from Sariz, the birthplace of Ferhat and Sertaç’s father, Ali. A roadside restaurant, Kılıçkaya Et Lokantası’s lowkey interior captures the essence of their food offering; no frills but exceptional quality meats, vegetables, honeycomb and kaymak, a traditional homemade and thick clotted cream. Serving vast mountains of kuşbaşı, pirzola and kaburga, cooked on a coal fired indoor grill, with a bustling atmosphere and constantly revolving groups of local diners eager to dive into their lunches, plate after plate emerges from behind the countertop, and the table begins to fill with an immense variety of grilled delights. The lamb dishes’ garlic and smoked flavour was complemented with a blend of grilled tomatoes, spicy green peppers and a fresh serving of chopped salad, while lentil soup and hearty home baked bread rounded off the plentiful selection. In a strange twist of fate, when speaking with the in-house bread maker, it transpired that he knew Ferhat and Sertaç’s father, Ali. Having grown up only a few kilometres away, the two had trained in the army together, last seeing one another over forty years ago. Commenting on this familiarity, Sertaç said “It’s interesting being born and growing up in London, and still coming here and feeling an immediate connection. We’ve had so many conversations with locals that have felt almost like long lost family. There’s been an instant warmth and charisma. We’ve noticed certain similarities between the way they talk, they react, their sense of humour.”

Offset with some of the purest honeycomb, produced specifically for the restaurant, both the brothers were in awe of the offering. “The honey and kaymak was just transformative. It’s tribute to taking the two simplest things, milk and honey, and it tastes vastly different to anywhere else. The wax just melted in your mouth; it was entirely natural. I don’t think I’ve ever tried honey that pure before,” commented Sertaç. “One bite of that was probably the tastiest thing I’ve ever put in my mouth,” Ferhat responded, “primarily just two core ingredients, with no cooking involved, but the process of producing that honey and the cream, the discipline that it must take, the exacting approach in its creation, combining it and the way it balances, I feel like every cuisine in the world can take note and be inspired by that.” While just the first stop of many on our excursion through Anatolia, the area’s food culture and impact is already evident in the quality of the dishes we’ve sampled.

Following our hefty late morning lunch just north of Sariz, a swift Turkish tea and a welcome drive back to Kayseri allowed us time to recover from the delights of Kılıçkaya Et Lokantası. With the sun shining brightly on a warm autumn afternoon, our next stop at Lezzet Develi Civiklisi saw us sample one of Türkiye’s most renowned bread dishes: pide. A flatbread dish cooked in a wood-fired oven, pide’s combination of cheese, meat and vegetables delivers a deceptively light bite, perfect for a late lunch or pre-dinner snack.

Served with fresh parsley, rocket and a spicy tomato and pepper dip known as ezme, the crispy boat-shaped snacks showcased the breadth of Anatolian cooking and the variety that is on offer. Washed down with a Turkish coffee, served black with a rich aroma and a thickness that nods to its strength, the pide’s warming and satisfying flavours delivered another knockout celebration of the country’s culinary prowess.

Rising bright and early following a day of feasting, a trip to Kayseri’s Grand Bazaar was on the cards. The second largest bazaar in Türkiye, after the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, the 800-year-old covered market is an epicentre of commerce in the historic city. Even older than its Istanbul counterpart, the bazaar’s bustling atmosphere and colourful array of sights, sounds and smells exemplifies the time-honoured importance of such spaces in the cultural fabric of the country.

Wandering through the narrow alleys and taking in the vast space, it would be easy to spend hours exploring every nook and cranny of the place. Taken on an exclusive tour by one of the market’s guides, Ferhat and Sertaç were offered an insight into the history of the place few visitors are privy to, including a peek at the market’s ancient ruins; a section that is currently closed to the public as it is renovated for posterity. “The market tour in Kayseri was so unexpected. It escalated into this tour of the ancient ruins that were hidden within the confines of the market, which was completely unblemished and preserved. Our guide said he wished he had two more hours because there is a whole underground market beneath the modern market,” commented Ferhat. “It contextualises exactly why this place is so special. You could see the history right there. You could imagine this as the meeting place between all parts of the country. It’s right in the middle of Türkiye, so this would be the meeting point for everyone from the north, south, east and west,” Sertaç reflected.

Venturing further into the depths of the bazaar, we happened upon a pastirma seller, which immediately caught the attention of the Dirik brothers. Nestled amongst strings of sucuk sausage, the seller was diligently slicing thing pieces of pastirma, a form of highly seasoned, air cured beef. Commenting on the processes, Sertaç said “talking to the pastirma maker, the practices are different. Asking him about the cut of meat, how long they cure it for, what their processes are, even down to the quality of the herbs that that they use here. The fenugreek paste here, for example, is going to be wildly different to the fenugreek paste that you get back in London. Eating from the land, where it’s from is wildly different. Here, you can air dry the meat. He [the pastirma maker] told us that the valley of the mountains is the perfect condition to air cure meat, because the air is dry but cold. In the UK, it would all be done in fridges with fans, so it’ll still end up with a synthetic fridge taste. In air as fresh as this, it’s so different.” This dedication to craft, with time-honoured processes, is undeniable. Extending from the basic ingredients and produce, to the way of life, the environment of the place cultivates a specific lifestyle. “The air is so oxygen rich here. A lot of our ancestors, on our dad’s side, who lived here, lived past 90 years old,” reflected Ferhat. “He had many relatives who lived over a hundred, in the time before conventional medicine, so it just goes to show that the quality of life, with the soil, the oxygen, it’s vastly superior. And that obviously then translates onto the produce. Which we’ve all tasted. It’s a truly special place here.”

Stopping off at Saray Kelle & Tava Salonu for a bowl of late morning soup under a canopy of verdant green foliage, Ferhat and Sertaç sampled a local delicacy: kelle paça, a Turkish sheep’s head soup. Full of chunks of lamb, the rich and spicy broth was accompanied with crisp green chillis, freshly baked bread and lemon wedges for adding an additional splash of acidity and providing much needed energy after a few hours exploring Kayseri’s hidden history.

Following a morning exploring the delights on offer throughout the Kayseri Grand Bazaar, we embarked on a short trip across the city to sample a different side to Anatolian cuisine; manti. Taking on myriad forms, manti are a type of Turkish dumpling made from flour and filled with a variety of meats, vegetables and potatoes. Steamed to perfection, gargantuan plates of the delicious bites are served with olive oil, sumac and Aleppo pepper powder, alongside yoghurt, spicy pepper paste and traditional bread. Descending on Gubate, towards the southeastern side of the city, the unassuming eatery immediately proffered a rich variety of delectable morsels. Following a peak behind the curtain at the process of handmaking the pillowy dumplings, plate after plate were delivered to the table, alongside a rich variety of pickles, sauces and other savoury accoutrement. Reflecting on getting to try Anatolian cuisine first hand, Sertaç’s feelings were made clear, “from the pastirma to the sucuk to the manti dumplings, it’s been amazing to try it all here. They have been our favourite foods growing up, so being able to try them all from the source, without preservatives, has been incredible. We feel very privileged to be able to have done this.” Leaving Gubate well-fed, we headed southwest towards Cappadocia. With Kayseri in our rear-view mirror, the memories of the city’s exceptional cuisine would surely stick in our minds for the hours, days and weeks to follow. With a richness and complexity of flavours that is nuanced yet instantly identifiable, the city’s array of quality restaurants reflects a culture that is truly dedicated to providing quality food.

As our trip nears its end, there is still one final restaurant to visit. Just shy of 18 kilometres southeast of Göreme sits Mustafapaşa, a small village brimming with character and a rich history of Anatolian Orthodox Greeks. Sitting centrally to the southern-most corner of the settlement is the Old Greek House, a former home that was converted into a restaurant in 1992 by the Ozturk family. Still operated by the original owners, the restaurant’s impressive façade is only bested by its stunning historic interiors. Upon entering the Old Greek House, you’re immediately hit by the open-air courtyard’s grandiosity and immaculately preserved interior. If the old saying that you eat with your eyes before your mouth rings true, then the first sight of the Old Greek House bodes well for the meal to follow.

After climbing a well-worn stone staircase to the second floor, the restaurant’s homely feeling is further continued, complete with an in-house cat, whose relaxed demeanour perfectly complemented the stillness of a sunny late morning. Entering the dining room, a large circular table at floor height is surrounded by a smattering of seating cushions, carefully placed atop of a beautifully rich and colourful Turkish rug. For as grand a space as this, a grand meal was surely to follow. Shortly after sitting down, a procession of plates were placed down, rapidly filling the table, shrinking its impressive size down to the routine. Presenting a host of traditional Cappadocian dishes, the magic of the Old Greek House pervaded throughout the setting, the food and the atmosphere of the place. Barbunya, icli kofte, ezme, yaprak sarmasi, peynirli tepsi böreği and güveç were served one after another, filling the room with rich aromas of tomato, garlic and herbs. After readily devouring the numerous dishes in front of us, a swan song of Turkish tea and baklava was served. Decadent in its sweetness, yet with a purity that I’ve come to expect from the quality ingredients that can be found in Anatolian cuisine, this burst of honey was the perfect end to a masterclass of regional cooking.

Sitting on the roof of the Grand Cappadocia Hotel before sunrise, sipping on a glass of Turkish tea, the tranquillity of a mid-autumn morning is enveloped in the crisp near-zero temperature: a good omen for a clear sky and perfect weather conditions. Across the town of Göreme in the Cappadocia region of Central Anatolia, bursts of orange illuminate the ground as the town’s iconic hot air balloons prepare to take flight, chasing the light across the sky to offer panoramic vistas of the region’s impressive geological cone-shaped rock formations that are littered across the landscape. As the sun slowly rises to the east, the sky transforms into a palette of orange, yellow and rich blue punctuated with the floating inverted teardrop-shaped balloons that have become synonymous with the region.

Sitting down with a traditional Turkish breakfast of cured meats, bread, cheese and fruit, the Dirik brothers gaze across the skyline, taking in the natural beauty of Cappadocia and the impact that the trip has had on them. “Coming back to Anatolia for the first time in 19 years, has reinforced, personally, my identity, my roots, experiencing the regional cooking and dishes that we grew up with at home, to have it at its base here has been transformative,” Ferhat contemplated, “on top of that, I’ve felt very connected to the land, the landscape and the terrain and the energy of the area. It’s made me feel very complete. It’s felt like a very personal mission, and I’ll leave here feeling very fulfilled and sure of myself and my family’s roots.” Echoing Ferhat’s sentiment, Sertaç said, “It’s strange because the last time I was here, I was 9 years old. I don’t remember much of it, but being here and interacting with people, we’ve immediately felt warmth. There’s always this thing of when you’re born and have grown up in a country, but you’re not from there, there’s always this part of you that seeks that connection. Wondering where I’m from, where do I belong? Thinking “I’m not quite Turkish enough for the Turks, I’m not quite English, where do I lie?” Trips like this really reinforce my own identity. I was born in London, a big part of me is that I’m a Londoner and I’m very proud of that, however, there’s an entire richness that comes with being Turkish and being from this area. Anatolia is such an incredible, historic location; it’s shocking and homely at the same time.”